Showing posts with label Strasbourg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Strasbourg. Show all posts

Sunday, December 18, 2011

One year and 42 weeks - M's Thanksgiving in the US, K in Belgium, and Visiting French and German Christmas Markets

Notre Dame of Sablon

K had a business trip to Brussels the week of Thanksgiving.  He arrived in Brussels early Monday afternoon, dropped off his luggage at the hotel, and headed into town to see some sights.  The hotel was a 10minute walk outside the inner/downtown area, so, with a little guidance from the hotel staff, off he went.

The Palace of Justice was an impressive structure, with large arcades, grand stairways, and a huge inner atrium, topped off with a cupola 100m above street level.  Per the guidebook, it took 17years to build.

Next was Notre Dame of Sablon, a gothic church with amazing stained-glass windows.  It was a sunny day, so there were splashes of color throughout the building as the sun shone in through the windows.


City Hall
Brewer's House
After walking by the Royal Palace, the official home of the royal family (who knew Belgium was a kingdom?!), K headed to the Grand Place.  The square is faced with the 15th-century, gothic City Hall and 17th-century guild houses; an incredible architectural collection.  One of the fanciest guild houses was the Brewer’s House, which was open, so K headed in to tour the Beer Museum.

After the museum, K wandered some of the streets around the Grand Place, discovering several other gothic churches, including the Cathedral of Saints Michel and Gudule, a beer store called the Beer Temple, the neighborhoods of Saint Catherine and Saint Gery, and also a little statue, famous world-wide, of a little peeing boy: Manneken Pis.  But enough architecture and sights, K was really interested in the beer, so he headed back to the Beer Temple to check out the selection.

Manneken Pis
 As Abbey and Trappist ales rank high on K’s beer favorites list, this was his first focus.  There are 6 Trappist breweries in Belgium (Achel, Chimay, Orval, Rochefort, Westmalle, and Westvleteren), and five of them distribute their beers fairly broadly, so K had tasted (or at least seen) all of the beers except Westvleteren.

When K and M took beercation 2010 to Belgium, we did a little research.  According to the Westvleteren abbey website, their beers are sold exclusively at the abbey store, only after making a reservation by telephone.  They’ll only answer one call per month from your telephone.  When making the reservation, you register your car’s license plate number.  The same license plate cannot return for 60days after the reservation.  As this seemed very daunting, we didn’t bother trying for Westvleteren.

So, K was delightedly shocked to find beers from all six Belgian Trappist breweries on the shelf in the Beer Temple.  The Westvelteren bottles were noticeably more expensive than their brethren, but available; it seems some Belgian capitalists have recognized the opportunity provided by the Westvleteren abbey’s tight control of supply, and there is a limited resale market.  There were two brews for sale, the blonde and the 8, so he purchased one of each; there will be a tasting in the coming weeks/months.

Parc du Cinquantenaire
The next few days were training for work, so no sight-seeing, but Thursday evening, class ended, and K headed back out to see more of Brussels.  He headed Esat to visit the Parc du Cinquantenaire; begun in 1880 to celebrate Belgium’s 50th anniversary of independence.  25years later, the park, museums, and triumphal arch were completed.

Heading West back into the old city, he passed through the European Commission area, the capital of the EU.  Big, recent office buildings in the heart of Brussels.  Apparently, this was a high-rent district prior to the EU, and the government bought-out all the land-owners, razed everything, and built the capital right in the middle of Brussels.


Some further wandering brought K to the Brussels Comic Book Museum, filled with Schtroumpfs/Smurfs, Tintin, and other popular characters.

Friday morning, K headed for a whirlwind trip to Brugges.  He bought his train ticket at 0759 for the 0800 train; fortunately, the previous train on the platform was 5minutes late, so the timing worked fine.  Arriving at Brugges’ train station a little after 0900, K grabbed his guidebook and started walking.  For the next 90 minutes, K saw churches filled with art, the city hall with its enormous Belfry, narrow and winding streets, canals, fish markets, almshouses, a convent, and grand squares.


Brugges' Belfry
Brugges City Hall
Little wonder that this “Venice of the North” is a UNESCO world heritage site; it’s very pretty and worth much more time, but there’s no more time on this trip!  The walk brought K back to the Brugges’ train station at 1034 to catch the 1035 train to Brussels; followed by a walk in the rain, K arrived back at the hotel at 1156, in plenty of time for the 1200 checkout.

After lunch and a taxi-ride to the airport, K had an uneventful flight and train ride home to Neuchatel, where Major and Minor were waiting for dinner.

Thanksgiving in U.S.
While K was in Belgium, M decided to go home to the US to celebrate Thanksgiving.  She arrived Sunday evening and had a great time going shopping, seeing a friend also in town for the holidays, and spending time with family.  Thanksgiving day was great and started with a few minutes of watching the Macy's Thanksgiving day parade on television, driving up to her grandmothers for "The Meal", gorging herself on food (tried each of the 4 pies available), and watching a family slideshow.  One of her favorite parts of the trip was eating lots of Mexican/Mexicanish food.  

Last weekend, our friend Charlotte came to Neuchâtel on her way to Stuttgart for work.  She spent the night with us Friday, and then Saturday we all drove up to Strasbourg, France, the Capital of Christmas, to see their famous Christmas market (Marché de Noël) on our way to Stuttgart.


Vin cuit
Strasbourg Christmas Market Stop 1:
Wine tasting 
Even though Strasbourg is only 3 hours away from Neuchâtel, it took us a bit longer with all the pit stops for M.  We made it to Strasbourg just before lunch, and the first Christmas market village we encountered had a Wine and Baked goods theme.  (What a wonderful way to start a Christmas market stroll!) After Charlotte and Ken tried some local white wines and M drooled over baked goods, we moved along to the some of the other "villages."

We meandered past the stalls selling candles, ornaments, ceramic houses, and wooden decorations.   Most of the town was decorated, and the main streets within the Christmas market region all seemed to have a different decorating theme/style.  It was hard not to get into the holiday mood with all the decorations and people enjoying themselves.

Choucroute alsacienne
M and Charlotte with Neuchatel Santa
Every year, the market has a guest country of honor; this year's was Switzerland.  It was funny to see a bunch of stalls selling Swiss tchotchkes and selling raclette and fondue.  After winding around the stalls, we started to look for lunch.  By the time, we got to looking for food we were having trouble meeting the demands of having a vegetarian dish, having Alsatian sauerkraut for K, and the restaurant not being full.  Finally, we settled on a restaurant we had seen on our previous trip.  K and Charlotte split a double order of Alsatian sauerkraut (choucroute alsacienne) with 6 garnies.  Although this sounds like six garnishes, the giant plate of sauerkraut came with 6 different pork preparations (ranging from sausage to pork belly to pork knuckle) and some boiled potatoes.  

Strasbourg Christmas
light display chandelier
Strasbourg marché light display
After lunch, we meandered once again through the stalls, saw the outdoor ice rink, and went into the cathedral to hear the children's choir sing Christmas carols, primarily in English, and admire the stained glass windows.   After getting sort of lost, we found a stall that makes fresh belgian waffles on sticks and then coats them in chocolate.  (This was definitely one of M's favorite finds of the day.)   Shortly into our late afternoon meander, the daylight was already beginning to wane so the Christmas light displays were coming on.  (The street with the chandelier displays was one of the more breathtaking.)

After oohing and aahing at the pretty lights, we headed back to the car and started our drive to Stuttgart.  Our original intent was to spend a few hours in Heidelberg (a cute, old college town also known for its Christmas market), but we ran out of time and decided it would be better to save it for another day.  After about two hours, we got to Stuttgart, checked into the hotel, and went out to dinner with Charlotte and two guys that work for her.

Mercedes Benz Museum
Mercedes Benz Museum
Daimler's first motorcycle: 1885
The next day, we decided to use the morning to see the Mercedes Benz museum in Stuttgart.  We went with Charlotte and one of the guys from dinner the previous night.  Drooling over cars is not really our schtick, but we actually quite enjoyed it.  The museum was five or six levels and went through the history of car design and the history of the Mercedes Benz company.  They had cars/vehicles from the 1880s to 2011.  

Stuttgart Weihnachtsmarkt
After the museum we headed back to the center of town to have lunch and to see what Stuttgart's Christmas market (Weihnachtsmarkt) had to offer.  It's claim to fame is being the largest Christmas market in Germany.  We didn't find it to be that much bigger than the Strasbourg market, but the drunken football fans waiting for the Stuttgart-Munich game that night did put a slight damper on the holiday atmosphere.  After the market we headed back to the hotel to get our car and begin our long drive back home to Neuchâtel.

Snow in Neuchâtel
M had a somewhat exciting week this week, with bowling with the Quality Engineering department on Monday night and a "Christmas" dinner with her project team on Friday night.  Saturday was spent grocery shopping.  There was also some excitement this weekend as Neuchâtel saw its first real snow of the 2011/2012 winter season.  

Lessons learned:
1. Brussels is cobbled.  This probably means the sidewalks will last forever and it’s quaint.  But after long walks, on constantly uneven surfaces, it gets tiring.
2. In the 14th Century, Brussels was a walled city.  The one remaining gate, the Port de Hal, is a castle standing in a small park surrounded by the city.  As you walk along busy city streets, it’s a bit surprising to turn a corner and find a castle!
3. For all the fame, Manneken Pis is quite small.  If it wasn’t for the crowd around the little Pis boy, K would have walked right by.
4. Vin cuit can be red or white. The white stuff is a bit better than the red. 
5. English and American Christmas carols are not the same.  Many have the same words, but a different melody.  K found this out a few weeks ago when he went caroling in Neuchatel with a local English-speaking church.
6. Shortly after the first automobile, the Daimler folks put their engines into boats and aircraft.  The dirigible basket with a 2-way clutch (separate vertical propulsion and horizontal propulsion) from the 1880s was awesome!  Even today, that's a neat feat of engineering.
7. Many European McDonald's do not serve breakfast.  Important to know if you are looking for a place to make a pit-stop early in the morning.
8. The phrase "Montezuma's revenge" must not have the same cultural impact the world-over.  At dinner Saturday night in Stuttgart, the restaurant offered "Montezuma's ribs", ribs with Montezuma sauce.  Now, as a self-respecting, meat-eating 'mericun, K would rather have a side order of e-coli, than douse his plate in "Montezuma sauce".  The entire table, even the native Israeli, passed on this delectable delight.
9. A coworker gave M some coings, i.e. quinces.  After ignoring them for a week or two, a quince-paste-making-evening was held.  While peeling the quince seems to be the general rule (per the interwebs), M carefully saved some of the skins to get the extra pectin, but K quickly tossed those random skins with all the other "waste bits", so the quince paste isn't quite as thick as we'd expected.  But, it is interesting to learn that while quince paste is bright red, the flesh of the quince is white.  The cooking turns the flesh red.  So, the ultimate lesson learned for this blog: coing are related to homard, quince are related to lobsters.

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Month 2

Apologies to all for the lack of posting; however, the Boltons have been without home internet for a month. What follows is a summary of month 2.

Week 5
This was “get the apartment key week”. As mentioned previously, we were pretty sure that we had successfully opened the security deposit account, but we were sure that if we hadn’t opened the security account the apartment company would let us know. Of course, they decided to let us know on the day of key handover that they hadn't received notification of the security deposit account being set up. So, M had the pleasure of spending another day running between the apartment, the office, the bank, and the apartment company office (in the center of town, completely removed from the apartment building itself) to get everything set-up. Apparently, when K dropped off the paperwork last week, instead of mailing the papers to the apartment company, the bank associate lost the papers. As everything in CH requires original, signed documents, this meant that instead of the bank just sending a note to the apartment company, we essentially had to start over, with paperwork in triplicate, all requiring signatures from both M and K. Aaaahhh, Swiss efficiency.
Eventually the key was obtained, so M spent a few hours with the apartment concierge (an older gentlemen who lives in the next building over) going through the apartment reviewing the “mess” the previous tenants had left, e.g. one small speck inside the oven, and the “typical wear and tear” of the flat, e.g. small dents in the plaster walls? She also received a one hour tutorial on the communal clothes washing area: when is our assigned time, which machine is our assigned machine, how to use the machines, how to clean the machines after use (including drying inside various gaskets with a Swiss Shamwow), how the apartment cuts power to the washing area at 10pm every day so residents aren’t disturbed by the noise, how the Canton cuts power to the washing area at lunch every day (for reasons currently unknown), when to open the window to “air-out” the room, and when to leave the window closed, etc.
In fact, after spending the entire day, M learned all kinds of things, but they never informed her of how to pay the rent that was immediately due. This prompted additional trips between our bank and the apartment office.
For some reason, the Swiss like their apartments almost completely bare (no lights, just dangling wires, and no clothes closets-in fact, when searching for an apartment you need to make sure the kitchen actually comes with appliances), so we drove to Bern to visit IKEA (there is an IKEA about the same distance away, in Lausanne, but everyone said that the IKEA in the German part of CH was much better organized than the IKEA in the French part of CH); there, we bought some basic items like light fixtures and extension cords.
This was also “buy a car week”. On Thursday afternoon, K went out to kill a car and bring it home to the cave. After test driving one car from the previous weekend, and visiting many more car dealers, he was starting to run out of business hours to find something. Having driven by a few Alfa-Romeo dealers without stopping, K pulled into a small (7 car inventory) Alfa-Romeo dealer on the side of a random road. K’s eye was immediately caught by a used VW golf, with automatic transmission. It was 10 years old and had longer profile then we were looking for, but it met everything else on the list, and it had very, very low miles/kilometers. Took it for a test drive, went back to the office to get M to bring her back for a test drive, and bought it
The purchase contract was one single copy of one sheet of paper, requiring one signature. Unlike the US where you drive the car home off the lot, CH is a little different, and it can take a week or two to actually drive the car one just purchased. Supposedly, in a week, the car will be insured, inspected and registered, have license plates, and be ready to roll. If this works out, then this is a real example of Swiss efficiency. Even when we’ve purchased cars in the US, there have always been lots of signatures and paperwork required, even when there’s been no financing.

Easter week-end, everything is closed (including on the Friday before and the Monday after). Saturday, we woke up early and drove to Strasbourg in the Alsace region of France. The border crossing was uneventful, but the open plains of France were visibly distinct from the narrow valleys of Switzerland.
We visited the Cathedral of Notre Dame which was absolutely incredible. Incredible amounts of stone “gingerbread” on every possible external surface. So much so that it seems when they ran out of surfaces, it seems they added a flying buttress here or an arch there just to have more surfaces to cover with finery. Incredible. The interior was also impressive, lots of stained glass, amazing pipe organ. The pulpit was another “gingerbread” wonderland. We saw the astronomique horologe, but did not spend the extra 90 minutes to see the presentation on the clock.
Had lunch in a local vegetarian restaurant (La Poele de Carrotte) which M had googled. K ordered for himself, in French, as this was part of his French homework, and it went fairly well; the ordering was light on subjects and verbs, but he said lots of direct objects, with adjectives, instead of just grunting and pointing at the menu, and we received everything correctly. The goal was to sample local Alsacian wines, which we did, and to eat some vegetables as our diet the past few days has been heavy on carbs and light on greens, but M’s potato and carrot gratin (while creamy, cheesy, and wonderful) was a questionable execution of the 2nd goal.
Also in Strasbourg, we wandered through the Musee of Alsacian history: everyday life items from the 18th and 19th century, and then it was time for a nap. Afterwards, we continued strolling through the town with the mission to find local wines. After a couple wine stores, and a beer store offering Brother Thelonious from California (K’s favorite beer), we found one shop offering tastings. But, when we were offered the opportunity to taste local vintages, instead of wine, M was given plum schnapps (very sweet) and K had pear brandy (very strong). So, we didn’t really taste, but we did acquire local wines.
A little more strolling, and it was time to try the local bieres, as M claims that the Alsatians claim to take beer seriously (unlike the Swiss). We stopped into a bar and had a perfectly acceptable local beer, but after a brief discussion in French with the bartender, K had a fabulous strong, dark Belgian ale--Kasteel. Yum.
The final Alsacian specialty to find was sauerkraut/choucroute, but without meat. While window shopping, and stopping into a few restaurants to ask, we happened by a chocolate store. As we had just had a discussion of the scale of chocolate quality as relates to beer quality, and seeing as K had just had a pretty top-notch beer, M needed to see how Alsacian chocolatiers did. After 20 minutes, and with some chocolatey goodness warming our bellies, we returned to the search of vegetarian choucroute. This final box on our Strasbourg visit remained unchecked.

Week 6

Busy, busy week, but not from work. It was only a 4 day workweek, and we weren’t at work after 18h00 even once. Tuesday, our container shipment of household goods arrived. We’re still not entirely sure what route our belongings took to go from Woodland to Neuchatel, but we’re fairly sure that our dining room table is now a more experienced world traveler than we are. M & K tag-teamed the goods shipment, and by mid-afternoon all of our worldly goods were strewn about our apartment: the proverbial aftermath of a tornado hitting a trailer park, but definitely progress on getting settled in NE.
Wednesday evening, we continued to sort, organize, and identify what we needed to be able to sort and organize. For example, this apartment does have a linen closet and a coat closet, which is unusually generous by swiss standards, as referenced previously. However, item 1: we need a place to hang up all of our clothes, and item 2: even though our home in CA was smaller than the US average, and was certainly older than average, and seemed to us to have minimal storage space, after moving into a smaller apartment that largely came with blank walls, the CA space was utilized very well: built-in bookcases, kitchen utensil hanging racks in the kitchen, a magnetic knife bar on a wall, a pot rack hanging from the ceiling, a built-in pantry. So, we needed some general storage space (kitchen goods, food, books, DVDs, CDs, games, etc). We took some measurements, and discussed how we wanted to lay-out the apartment, and then took more measurements.
Thursday, we got our car we picked up our "new" 1999 Swiss VW Golf.
Friday morning, on our way to work, we saw the Cheese Wagon again. In the US, Cheese Wagon is a term for a school bus (as it’s yellow like US cheddar cheese, and it’s a wagon, of sorts). But in CH, the cheese is all white, and there aren’t school buses, so explaining the US reference takes quite a bit of time. But the Swiss Cheese Wagon isn’t a school bus. The closest US analogy is the Taco Truck or the Burrito Bus, i.e. a mobile food emporium, but instead of tacos or burritos, this truck sells cheese (really good cheese, too).
Friday, we formally moved our address. In CH, one must register with the local commune within 2 weeks of moving to a new town. So, as dutiful residents of the Helvetian Confederation, we went into downtown Neuchatel to register. And were promptly informed that we couldn’t register in Neuchatel until we had “de-registered” from Les Hauts Geneveys. To quote the lady at the office, “Have you told them you’re leaving?”. We hadn’t realized that we were breaking up with our temporary housing town, but no matter. So, hop into the car to drive 10 minutes up the road to Les Hauts Geneveys, to the commune office, to work through the break-up process. Which took approximately one minute and involved the commune official writing our departure date on a piece of paper in her file. Then, back into the car, back to Neuchatel, back to the residence registration office, to tell them that the break-up was complete and we were now free to live in Neuchatel. In the end, we spent approximately one hour to accomplish work that took 4 minutes to execute. Swiss efficiency strikes again.
Next up, a parking permit for our new car. Switzerland has reserved parking spaces, yellow parking spaces (semi-reserved), blue parking spaces (available to anyone, but with a time limit), and white parking spaces (in our books, these are described as free, but so far, we have only seen/found pay parking white spaces). The parking permit allows one to park near their home in blue spaces without the time limit. We wandered around NE until we found the police station, and then handed them the form that M had prepared (with some help from French fluent coworkers). But, our car is registered in Les Hauts Geneveys, because even though we gave the garage our Neuchatel address, the Canton “knew” that we “really” lived in Les Hauts Geneveys. So, we explained that we had (just that day) changed our address to Neuchatel. The official we worked with was extremely helpful, and it seemed like they would work through the issue. However, that evening we received an email from the city, and to the best of our French abilities, it seems that once we have updated the car registry to Neuchatel, then we can re-apply for the Neuchatel parking permit. Until then, no permit for us.
Friday after work, we drove back to Ikea to obtain furniture to store all of the items currently strewn about our apartment, or still in boxes. After several hours, we had identified all of the items which we wanted to purchase. As we had only shopped at Ikea twice previously, and on both occasions, had made fairly small purchases, we weren’t familiar with how self-service the establishment is. We were willing to pay for home delivery, as we wanted to acquire quite a number of items, but to have the items delivered, one must first find all of the items in (essentially) a warehouse space, load all of the items onto carts, move the carts (with goods) to checkout, buy all of the items, move the carts around the corner to customer service, request delivery, and then (supposedly) leave the goods with the customer service agents. After another hour of finding and loading items onto the cart (note that large boxes of particle board are (a) ungainly and (b) heavy), wrestling the carts to checkout, it was now after 21h30, and Ikea was closing down. K was a little frustrated by now, so he threw some ratcheting tie-downs (come-alongs) into the cart muttering “I’ll just strap everything to the top of the rental car. Screw it.” But after 30 minutes of wrestling boxes into the car, and then out of the car, and back into the car, we finally had everything loaded, and nothing was tied on top. Of course, M had to sit in the back, and K could hardly see out the right side windows of the car while driving, but everything was loaded. After an hour drive back to NE, we decided that we would unload what we could that night. So, after 23h on Friday night, we double-parked the car, turned on the hazard blinkers, and began hauling those big boxes of particle board out of the car, down the sidewalk, into the apartment building, either up the stairs or up the elevator, and finally into our flat. We whacked a lot of walls, and K definitely woke up a neighbor by accidentally ramming their front door with a box trying to unload it from the elevator at midnight, but eventually everything that was even reasonably movable by either of us was into the apartment. As it was now after midnight, we went to Les Hauts Geneveys, fed the cats, and collapsed into sleep.
Saturday, we awoke to return to the apartment to unload the remaining items from the car. As these were the heaviest & bulkiest items, we were unable to move the entire box for each item; instead, we had to unpack the box on the sidewalk and carry the contents up individually. We then spent the bulk of the day organizing goods, building furniture, re-organizing goods to take advantage of the new storage space, and repeating. We did take a break to go on a shopping trip to acquire some basic electronics (alarm clock, toaster, microwave oven) and while we still had the rental car (which has more space than our car; we never could have transported all of the Ikea stuff in our VW) we obtained a 2nd fridge, for when K gets back into the homebrewing business. After another long day, we had all the furniture built, except for the last wardrobe, and everything was coming together.

Sunday, we returned the rental car to the Geneva airport. We also took the opportunity to walk around the city and sight-see (for example, the famous flower clock). The Cathedral was very impressive. We also had a bite of lunch at a Genevese institution (Les Armures), and then took the train back to Neuchatel. M watched the countryside and napped while K caught up on work.

Week 7

After a lighter load at the office the previous week, work this week retaliated. Except for Friday, K was in the office until 8 every night.
Monday, we built the last wardrobe.
The rest of the week, M spent the evenings shuttling goods from Les Hauts Geneveys to our apartment in Neuchatel.
Saturday, we brought the last loads of stuff and the cats to our new home.
Sitting down Saturday evening, in our chairs, at our table, to eat a meal on our plates with our flatware, that M had prepared with our kitchen utensils, in our pots, was very comfortable. It had been nearly two months since we’ve been able to do this, and it’s a great milestone. Afterwards, we hooked up M’s Imac and watched one of our DVDs. Again, very comforting. It felt like home.
Sunday, K took his bike out for a ride. After having only ridden on flat roads in Woodland, CA for the past 5 years, and after minimal exercise for 8 weeks, the hills of Neuchatel, were a huge challenge. The ride was short and painful. However, coming back downhill was fun.
Also, on Sunday, we went for a walk in town (nous faison la promenade) to check out the new environs.

Week 8

From an acclimatization perspective, this week was fairly uneventful. Our new commute is only 3km, but it takes nearly as long as our commute from Les Hauts Geneveys, as there are two spots of road construction between the apartment and the office.
Walking, or bike riding, to work can be even shorter, but it is a significant elevation change, so we haven’t gone green yet. One evening, K had to work late, so M took the car to run errands, and K walked home; it was all downhill and quite pleasant.
Friday morning, we saw a hedgehog (herisson) outside the apartment. It was small and cute. M mentioned the sighting to her coworkers and learned that Swiss hedgehogs have special Swiss hedgehog fleas; these fleas, supposedly, will transfer to pets, e.g. cats, but not to people. Separately, she was informed that les herissons have a penchant for strawberries. So, if we see another, we may try to entice it closer with a strawberry, but we'll keep the cats away so that they don't acquire fleas.
M planned a big weekend in Gruyere: cheese, castle, more cheese, some museums (apparently the character designer from the movie Aliens [with Sigourney Weaver] is from Gruyere, and there’s a museum of his work), more cheese, and then some intestinal blockage. However, it turns out that one weekend per year (this weekend, in fact), they shut down all of the roads around Gruyere, apparently to make a city-wide block party. As Gruyere is quite a distance away, and as the train connections from Neuchatel to Gruyere are fairly complicated (especially for public transit newbies), we’ll delay our Cheesefest until next weekend.
However, we did decide to go out Friday night and enjoy some Neuchatel nightlife. We started in the town’s Irish Pub (Cafe du Cerf), enjoying the live music (the musician played a Chapman stick, which we’d never heard of, but was interesting), and some beverages. We moved on to the local brewpub and things got interesting… M had a banana beer and K had the seasonal special brew (both were highly recommended by the waitress). The banana beer was, essentially, an alcopop: very sweet, very banana-y, very not what we were expecting, quite unpalateable. The special, was bright pink, somewhat sweet, but quite spicy, so essentially, was like drinking watery hot sauce; very not what we were expecting, and quite unpalateable. (Ken's pretty certain that the special was the worst beer he's every tasted, which, considering his fraternity days in college, and his initial attempts at homebrewing--think ham-flavored beer, is saying quite a bit.) Much laughter ensued, particularly over discussing how to imbibe these beverages without grimacing. After much laughter, we made our way home.
The beer "incident" has, however, renewed Ken's fervor in getting homebrewing restarted. We've located some online Swiss homebrew suppliers. Now, we just have to figure out how in the world we're going to boil 5 gallons of water on the itty-bitty electric stove in our kitchen...

Lessons Learned:
1) Swiss beer, in general, is not very good.
2) The vignette de velo (bike registration sticker) required to take a bike on any public road covers up to 2 million francs worth of damage that you might cause to someone else's property with your bicycle. How exactly one can cause even 1 million francs of damage with your bicycle is still up for debate.
3) It seems almost no windows in Switzerland have window screens.
4) The Swiss love speed traps.